Monday, March 20, 2017

....Down Long Island Sound...


It was November 24th and the water is cold.  Even though our boat is insulated she is steel.  Her steel hull submerged in the water keeps the boat cool and refreshing during those long hot summer days. But there are significantly different impacts now. With the shorter days there is less time to be on the water in daylight; the weather is pinching toward winter conditions; and we were still pretty far north.  Bridlewilde has ample heating aboard but the cold water keeps the boat even cooler on cooler days.  It was time to put some distance between us and Massachusetts.

Our route upon departing from New Bedford included heading back out into Buzzards Bay, catching the wind for a southwest draw, slip down the centre of the bay right into Block Island Sound between Watch Hill Point to the west and Montauk Point on our east, catch the current boost on the run through The Race, a narrow geographical gorge located between Plum and Fishers Islands, using the speed increase to whisk swiftly into Long Island Sound.  Once into Long Island Sound we would continue to sail the length of the Sound to reach City Island, New York by late afternoon the following day, a 200 mile run.  It would be an overnight passage; we would bypass Rhode Island and Connecticut and this advance would put us in line in time to meet up with family members who would soon be in New York City.  We slid away from the slip in New Bedford at 7 am.  The morning mist rose silently over the harbour.  The rising sun rays shimmered through the tendrils of foggy haze over the seaport.  Bridlewilde skimmed through the glistening flickers of diamonds, crafted by the same rays, as they danced along the rippling crests of water.  It seemed enchanting; magical; I really did pinch myself.  This was no dream; I was awake. I was in this moment. I was truly here.   

The passage progressed smoothly.  It was on my watch at the helm that I pointed out to the captain that we had arrived at The Race.  Our speed increased to 9.4 knots and as expected, it carried us right through, into the mouth of Long Island Sound past Plum Island and Orient Point.  The sails snapped and the rigging whistled; it was cold; we knew it would be.  We were prepared.  When I was packing all our winter gear onto the boat prior to our departure from Nova Scotia, the captain was thoroughly annoyed with my insolence.  He explained that we would not need any of those items for years, thereby saving the space they would impose for much better served necessities.  I am the first mate.  I packed the gear aboard. Dressed in long johns, winter ski pants and jackets, sporting winter gloves, hats and scarves, steering our boat through the cold, windy, damp overnight crossing down the Eastern Seaboard in late November, we were both so thankful to be warm and cozy, in such garb.

I have expressed before that I require a point of reference to gaze upon to ward off seasickness.  However, the waters of Long Island Sound this night were not rough.  The Sound is protected from the Atlantic Ocean by Long Island stretching the full length in front of it.  Although the same Sound can produce heavy vicious seas in difficult weather, this was not the case on this night.  I have also expressed before that we are all about safety first, which includes not travelling in difficult conditions.  We were aware that both winds and waves were in our favour, with a wave height of 1.5 feet on intervals of 9 seconds. As a result, I was able to use my four hours off watch to sleep on a comfortable sea in the settee below.  The captain has difficulty catching as much sleep as I do. He is the captain.  He is totally responsible, the person who must react if something fouls, the person who will and has always come to the rescue if need be. He is always just that much more conscious than I am.  Therefore, he sleeps very little on an overnight passage.   This night was no different.  I knew he was tired as I descended the cabin to take over for my next turn at the helm.  It was very early, that place in time when the steel grey dark of night hovers in the background all the while the buttery golden hue of daylight tries to push its way through the shadows.  I heard the boat’s engine chiming along, I felt no wind on my face, the sea was calm and I saw the sails had been taken in.  Keith reported that we were motoring along at 5.5knots, were about 3 miles offshore between Fairfiled and Southport and everything was smooth.  He chatted with me about the few hours that had just passed and we continued along watching the sun rise reflecting on the shores of the Connecticut coast.   Just as I was remarking on how glasslike the water of the sound appeared, the engine sputtered and coughed and quieted.  The captain briskly awakened from the quietude of the moment and came to action.  He attempted to restart the engine with no success.  He had refuelled the tank during the night so the boat was not out of fuel.  He asked me to take over the helm while he went below to examine the engine and to tie off the wheel so that we would heave to.  With our initial panic squelched, we assessed the situation. The water was dead calm; we were 3 miles from shore; we could see where we might head to with some wind and sails up if necessary; and we had purchased a boat tow insurance program called Sea Tow, similar to a CAA land program for vehicles.  We had options. 

The captain re-evaluated the situation once he checked the engine. He would have to change the fuel filter and it was expected this would repair the problem.  We contacted Sea Tow to advise of our condition but we were informed that it would be a four hour wait before assistance would arrive to us. We related our co – ordinates via our Spot locator system to the US Coast Guard who contacted us by phone to discuss our status. The US Coast Guard determined that we were not in any immediate risk and advised that they would not be assisting.  As daunting as that sounds, three miles offshore with no motor, the captain had the circumstance well in hand.  Although he was exhausted from the long night before, Keith explained that the procedure to replace the fuel filter should take about half an hour; allowing us to be on our way again shortly after that.  The fuel filter came off with no problem. However, try as he might, the captain could not unscrew the housing component from the fuel filter so as to screw on the new filter for replacement on the engine. He tried every tool possible but it would not move. Ringed grooves surround the cylindrical fuel filter into which the new filter is connected. One of the rings of the old filter had jumped the track of the housing component that holds it on making it impossible to unscrew.   A half hour repair turned into a three hour event with our boat circling the ocean in heave to position.  But as usual the captain resolved the problem. He used screwdrivers, clamps, plyers, hammer, and oil change paraphernalia; taking such care not to damage the rings of the housing component.  But the tool that was most effective was our galley can opener tearing away at the metal to release it.  Once the release took place Keith could carefully pry the unit away and attach the new filter, and replace it on the engine, a process that took about fifteen minutes. Once installed the boat engine turned over with the first flick of the key and we were on our way again.  Have I mentioned how amazing this captain is?


Fuel filter removal with can opener


The filter setback cost us sailing hours. The captain needed rest.  We altered our course to head to Greenwich, Connecticut.  We arrived there at 1:30 pm knowing that the following day would be a short 25 mile run to City Island.  It was an unexpected unplanned stop.  We decided to take a slip at the first marina we came to as it was to tiring a day to start looking for an anchorage or a mooring ball.   The entry into Cos Cob harbour was tricky so we were glad we had made that decision. As we pulled around a huge red tug anchored off the mouth of the harbour two fellows in a small fishing craft pulled up beside us to ask what part of Canada we were from, again our flag presenting her colors.  Both were also from Nova Scotia, there working on a larger fishing trawler and told us to follow them, as our guide, in the shallow harbour to the marina.  We knew there was only 6 feet of water under us; the entry twisted around leaving Newfoundland Reef’s flashing red buoy #4  to starboard and Red Rock with its red over green nun to port; the pilotage in was very welcomed.  We tied to an outer dock at the local yacht club. It would just be one overnight.  We arrived at a very inconvenient time for the proprietors. A funeral wake was taking place for a very prominent wealthy local businessman who had been a member of this yacht club.  Remember, we are now in Greenwich, where people like the Rockefellers, the Gimbels and the like accrued large estates on the waterfront.  And our little Canadian vessel was perched among the superyachts in their yacht club with one of their dead being honoured inside their clubhouse.  I did not dare to ask who it was. I shudder to think what the concierge, who greeted me and opened the 20 foot double mahogany front doors for me, clad in a beautiful uniform wearing white gloves with no hair out of place, had in his mind as I strolled up the stairs of this exclusive establishment, clad in red rubber boots, windblown from a 30 hour overnighter, smelling of the remnants of the repaired fuel filter splattered across my disheveled winter attire, thought as I asked for room at his inn.  The man explained about the wake, sent me quickly back to the boat making sure to let me know that someone would best deal with me there, only, as their guests were soon to arrive for the memorial and they would be very busy.  I respectfully snickered to myself about the whole scenario as I headed back to the captain and Bridlewilde.  I got out of sight just in the nick of time for him! We spent the night at the dock, slept soundly and were gone by early morning to City Island.
Surely you see nothing odd about my attire! Can you imagine what the poor concierge thought? LOL
We had the wind. We flew down the remainder of Long Island Sound, the 25 miles to City Island, New York, in 4.5 hours.  We tied to a mooring ball in a small cove but when we found the holding was not safe, we moved.  We put out a call on the VHF radio requesting local knowledge for depth entry.  The captain of the red tug that we had passed on the way into Cos Cob harbour responded immediately.  He reported that he had seen our entry, expected that we were the vessel he saw, talked to Keith extensively about boats and gladly provided us with the information we needed.  We traveled on to a small municipal marina that was closed.  We tied to an outer dock.   A security guard arrived at the boat, suggested we pay him a few bucks cash personally to remain and he would give us the code for the front gate lock but would have no other services.  We agreed to the terms, secured the boat and went off in search of some early supper and authentic New York cheesecake.  We would return early with the cheesecake in hand, to prepare for the next day, our next milestone, our arrival in New York City.   



Saturday, March 18, 2017

You Just Never Know

Buzzards Bay is almost 30 miles long and 5 miles wide.  It is tucked in behind the land mass from the mouth of the Cape Cod Canal to Woods Hole and farther out along the islands to Cuttyhunk, behind Martha’s Vineyard on the east.   The western shore stretches from Onset to Westport, MA.  It is a broad open bay where the dominant prevailing southwesterly winds establish the bay as an excellent sailing destination for many boaters. Even though it can be rough at this time of year, it was considerably quiet and we had a relaxing sail as we headed for New Bedford, Fairhaven, our next destination.

New Bedford is rich in cultural and sailing history, once a whaling capital of the world, and remains a busy seaport today.  It beckoned to us both; for entertainment and exploration purposes and as a good deep protected harbour to moor. We could take care of a few minor repairs on the boat, purchase new oars for the dinghy and check out the community. New Bedford and Fairhaven are sister cities joined by a series of bridges across the harbour on the Acushnet River.  Centered in the middle of the harbour is Pope’s Island connected to New Bedford on the west by a bridge and to Fairhaven to the east by another bridge.  Another favourable and distinctive characteristic of this harbour is its protection from the elements.  It has an immense breakwater built of stone outside the harbour which is almost four miles long and 26 feet high. In the centre of it is a 150 foot channel; at either side of which supports huge storm gates.  At the threat of a major storm or tidal surge the 80 ton gates close across the channel opening to protect the harbour, a feat that is conquered in just 12 minutes.

We approached the breakwater cautiously. The lengthy entrance from Buzzards Bay was well marked but seemed endless as it wound crisscrossed toward the gates.  The only other craft we saw was a lovely little sailing vessel as she headed out in the opposite direction to us, manned by a solitary soul, out for a cool evening sail toward the oncoming sunset.   I waved as she passed and the captain yelled over to me. “Hey Canada (he could see our flag stretching stately out behind us in the late afternoon breeze) where do you hail from?” I answered proudly, “From Nova Scotia” and could just hear the whisper of his response as his boat pulled away beyond our stern. “I know Nova Scotia. I have been there.” We exchanged thumbs ups, our verbal conversation no longer audible.  Bridlewilde’s bow arched around the last buoy reaching in through the 2.4 knot current of the ebb tide rushing through the breakwater into New Bedford.           

We slipped between  and beyond the gates and motored with ease through the mooring field. The captain caught the crusted lines of a vacant mooring ball closest to a boat ramp on shore; one he noticed would be within a meager reach for our dinghy tie up.  We had come to rest just outside the municipal marina on Pope’s Island, one we suspected was closed for the winter season; one we had unsuccessfully reached on the VHF earlier in the day.  We spent the night unsettled.  Keith was quietly unsure of the holding on the ball and was on deck numerous times throughout the night to check on it.  The position was also not to his liking; we were too close to the Fairhaven bridge; he could feel the current beneath us pulling on the hull and was uneasy.  Shortly after dawn the following morning Keith re-checked the lines.  They had held safely. However, after more thorough examination of their state, he decided we would move the boat.  He suspected that the extended growth of sea life attached to these ball lines was indicative of a mooring un-used for some time, possibly weakened; this coupled with the close proximity of the ball to the bridge was enough to warrant the move.  We took the dinghy into the marina to check its status and the possibility of acquiring a slip.  As luck would have it, the marina was open, remaining so for an additional week, with a slip available for Bridlewilde.  Within a couple of hours she was safely tied to the marina dock and we were free to scout out the area.

It took only a few short minutes to determine our visit here would require a four or five day layover to experience much of the local existence.  Fairhaven offered any marine specialists and boatyards for repairs from engines, rigging, electronics, canvas, sails, refrigeration, and propellers covering anything a boater may be in need of.  In Fairhaven, we hiked to West Marine to purchase new oars for the dinghy; a replacement for the one broken in half in Winthrop.  In Fairhaven, Keith found a welder to take care of a crack weakness he had noticed on a bolt in the boat’s engine.  The bolt holds down the valve cover and secures the rocker arm.  It took minutes to complete and the welder shook the captain’s hand but did not charge him anything for his work.  Keith had $7 cash in his pocket and left that for the fellow as a tip along with his sincerest of thanks. This same bolt had broken in Sheet Harbour on our voyage to Nova Scotia from Ontario.  We spent three days at anchorage there while working on the vessel.  While there, two fellows en route to dive for scallops from their trawler, noticed us in the secluded cove, steamed up beside Bridlewilde to say hello, exchange friendly pleasantries and check on our status, so typical of eastern Canadian mariners.  One of the two divers aboard was a maintenance serviceman for NS Power who assured us that upon the return trip from scalloping he would revisit, pick up the bolt, take it to his shop at the NS Power depot, weld it and return it before nightfall.  Within hours, the captain had the welded bolt replaced on the engine.  We were so thankful for the generosity afforded us; this act ensured and enabled us to continue our sailing journey; but the man would take no remuneration for his time, work or consideration.  He just remarked that we pay it forward somewhere in the future. This same bolt again had caused concern on Bridlewilde.  Again, here in New Fairhaven, we could not pay for its repair.  Uncanny! We were beginning to wonder. 

With the boat business concluded, we were anxious to explore New Bedford.  There was much to see.  We started with a walking tour, first across the swing bridge that joins Pope’s Island to New Bedford from which we could easily see the city’s deep piers.  At times, we learned, the commercial vessels are rafted three deep along the wharves; we saw huge freighters unloading clementines for distribution all across North America and loading tons of frozen fish catches for export. 

Commercial fisheries - New Bedford
We hiked over the bridge to the historic downtown, through narrow cobblestone streets amidst pubs, art galleries, theatres and all the eclectic shops that are so fun window gaze.  We listened to criers tell stories street-side of the occurrence of the first Naval battle of the Revolutionary War just off the local shores that lead to the construction of forts to guard and protect both sides of the harbour. Fairhaven’s fort built in 1775 on Nolscot Point was rebuilt and renamed Fort Phoenix after it was attacked and burned by the British in 1778. The fort in New Bedford is named Fort Tabor and was built in the 1800’s.

Cobblestone streets - New Bedford
Downtown New Bedford MA
Art in New Bedford
Art in New Bedford

We hiked up Johnny Cake Hill to the Whaling Museum to take in all the interesting memorabilia and vestiges so exquisitely displayed there.   Two of the most spectacular exhibitions are the skeleton of a 45 ton sperm whale hanging from the ceiling in the foyer of the museum and an 89 foot model replica of the whaling bark, the “Lagoda” that you can actually go aboard.  It is amazing, built to half the scale of the original and is the largest model of a ship in the world.  The museum collection is stunning; I was easily lost in nostalgia all the while we visited.  Here, I was reminded that Herman Melville actually left from Fairhaven aboard the whaling ship Acushnet to go to sea and from where it is thought that he garnered much of the background for his writing including that of “Moby Dick.”

Whale Skeleton

Whale skeleton


Replica of Lagoda
Lagoda Repica
Keith in the Waling Museum


Jo in Whaling Museum
Another piece of information that I learned when we went to the Seaman’s Bethel is that Joshua Slocum, a Nova Scotian sailor and the first man ever to sail around the world alone, rebuilt his vessel the “Spray” in Fairhaven before he left on his voyage.  The Seaman’s Bethel is a non-denominational chapel dedicated to whalers and sailors lost at sea and is located just across the street from the Whaling Museum.



Again, I cannot put to words how utterly gripping and undeniably enthralling it is to experience this voyage we are on.   We are only a few weeks in and we have already faced supreme wondrous sights, have been moved to tears and have been exposed to the most incredible of circumstances.  There are some terror events however, on the sea.  You may remember one such incident that was heavily covered by the media in July 2008 about a rescue water recovery, 156 miles SE off Nova Scotia in the North Atlantic Ocean.  Tropical Storm Cristobal raged offshore where a lone sailor, Cyril O’Leary, was making a passage to the Azores, Portugal in his sailboat when it was caught, overturned and lost.  However, not before the Canadian Coast Guard was able to respond to a Mayday call  from its captain, send divers and helicopters to assist, recover the battered man, lift him and a diver alive, from the water to safety aboard the rescue Cormorant.  He was taken to hospital in Kentville, NS where he recovered and then returned, without his vessel, to his home in Fairhaven, MA.  

We went to the marina office one afternoon while in New Bedford to check with the manager about her recommendation for the best pub in town.  We checked to see if Denis had arrived there in the past few weeks. We met Denis in Yarmouth, NS.  Denis was singlehandedly sailing his vessel, Painkiller, south also.  Also like us, was awaiting the same weather window to cross the Gulf of Maine.  We knew Denis was making his way to New Bedford too; we were told that he had arrived at this marina but had already departed, heading down Long Island Sound, the destination we too would sail toward upon our departure.  During our chat with the manager we heard a bit of a raucous taking place at the gate and continued on below us on the marina deck.  As we continued our conversation in the upstairs office, a strong male voice, one I had heard before, bellowing, “I am looking for a couple Canadians on a burgundy boat.”   I heard the hammering of heavy footsteps quickly bounding up the stairs.  And with a flurry of enthusiasm, in through the door, flew a man I recognized immediately.  I did not know his name but I knew who he was.  I had seen him recently and knew he was one who shared some similar experiences like us.  He chattered to us, “I have been looking everywhere for you; I have been to all the moorings and all the marinas asking of your whereabouts or if anyone has seen you.  I saw your boat on a ball and then you were gone.  Here you are; I have found you. I am Cyril O’Leary, the sailor you waved and talked to as you sailed toward the breakwater.”

We were dumbfounded.  We introduced ourselves; we had wonderful conversations about his sailing escapades and ours.   He told of his many connections to Nova Scotia and asked what he could do for us. He was so appreciative of his own rescue by Canadians; he hoped to give something back to some Canadians. We spent the afternoon together chatting, shopping and telling stories.  Cyril is a like-minded diehard somewhat like us, retired too, not deterred by his sailing challenges, but excited to be out on the sea at any given chance.  What is the likelihood of us unexpectedly meeting this man? What are the chances of our wakes ever crossing each others?  What are the chances of us becoming friends?  Life on the water is indiscriminate, its random, and utterly wonderful.   You just never know!

We knew that New Bedford was to be an interesting visit before we arrived.    We had no idea however how memorable! We ruminated, reflected, pondered our kismet as we pulled together our next plans to head out of this harbour into the Long Island Sound, toward the next milestone of our voyage.

Saturday, March 11, 2017

…Still South...Scituate-Sandwich-a canal-a harbour…Still South…

We awoke early on Wednesday November 16th.  We had much to do.  The previous night has been somewhat unsettling, considering the broken oar affair. Once up and about, we needed time to prepare for our departure from Winthrop. We decided to pass across the Boston Harbour, push past Weymouth Fore and the Back Rivers beyond Hull and Hingham Bays to island hop through the Boston Harbour Islands to make our way to Scituate to an anchorage for the night.  We dropped the mooring line just after lunch at 12:30 and caught the wind in our sheets with ease.  It was a glorious day, warm and sunny with perfect wind as we whisked our way through the islands at 6 knots.  We made the 24 mile run in four hours, caught a vacant mooring ball, and without departing the boat, enjoyed the beauty of the pleasant harbour from Bridlewilde’s cockpit.  After plotting a course for the following day to Sandwich, at the mouth of the Cape Cod Canal, we dined, watched a movie and were rocked ever so soundly to sleep by the swell beneath our hull.

As I mentioned earlier, the Cape Cod Canal entry was a milestone for us.  The captain had been through this canal system before as a crew member on a friend’s sailboat. He had some local knowledge but it was all new to me.  I was eager and energized, as was he, to reach the Canal. Reaching this canal together was to be a significant accomplishment for us; I anticipated a state of euphoria like the one I felt when we slid our boat into the slip at Gold River Marina, in Mahone Bay, NS for the first time after our first major voyage from the Bay of Quinte, Lake Ontario.  And the excitement was mounting!

We pulled away from the mooring ball in Scituate just as the sun was rising at 6:15.  The weather of the day resembled that of the previous.  We spent it in Massachusetts Bay on the open Atlantic Ocean rather than navigating most of the day through inside island cuts, as we had done the day before.  The wind was to our favour again, allowing us to reach the canal entry by noon.  The entry is visible from quite a distance out. We approached it easily from offshore. However, once we could easily make out the large rocky breakwaters on either side of it, using eyesight alone, it became very evident why the canal was built in the first place. 

Yes, the day was warm and beautiful but these waters were wild.  Wild water like this is not always alarming to us. We have traversed entries like this many times before.  But upon approach, for a short period of time, the boat is thrown back and forth, up and down, over and through the rollers as they push toward shore.  Generally, the surf is strong as is the current below it; proffering a mighty challenge to manage the helm in these conditions.  One must guide the vessel through these giant breakers, taking care to help her around any hurdles, push her unharmed in past the seawalls to the centre of a passage flowing into the calmer water of the channel inside. When negotiating entries like this we hope everything inside the hatches in the cabin below does not get thrown out and around.  We try to have things well secured to avoid this happening.  Such was the case in this instance. The fifteen minute ride in was roller-coaster like. However, as expected, once past that first seawall the water calmed.  Shockingly smooth, almost glass-like, but for the few ripples skipping across the surface, recapping in fact, we were on water.  There were no mishaps from the lockers inside. There were no mishaps in the cockpit.  There were no mishaps with Bridlewilde. None, as we pulled up to the marina wharf in Sandwich. We would take a dockage berth for the night. We would wait for the correct tide to travel through the length of the Canal the next day.  Again, our beloved little vessel had brought us safely to a landmark, a highpoint in our journey, a milepost.  It was truly momentous!

We made it - Cape Cod Canal
Travelling through a canal such as this is not just a piece of cake just because it is not out in the ocean.  There is planning and there are factors to consider.  We knew that.  We had been through locks and canals before on our trip east in the St. Lawrence River.  But every situation is unique, as is the Cape Cod Canal.  The current at either end of this canal mounts to 4 knots on a flood tide and 4.5 knots on an ebb tide.  The tide heads eastward so it is in ones best interest to move with the flow to maximize the time and speed of the passage.  Fighting headway into a 4.5 knot unfavorable current can actually push our vessel to a full stop at full speed ahead if there is big wind with it.  It is vital that we are aware of the tide elements.  There are also 3 traffic bridges that cross the Cape Cod Canal.  This also has an impact.  Sailboats must travel in designated areas under these bridges due to the height of their masts. Also, bridges are generally built at the narrowest points of a river or channel for cost effective measures. The narrower the river or channel becomes the faster the water is pushed through the cut. Ultimately, the speed of the water under bridges usually is faster.  This coupled with a given rapid current usually causes confused waters under bridges. Another consideration is the oncoming water traffic on these canals.  Some of it is big traffic and some of it is very wide;  barges, container ships, fishing vessels and the like.  These guys cannot stop on a dime.  One must be prepared to get quickly out of their way if any approaches.  Sometimes this can pose a hair-raising reaction if the channel is shallow or narrow or both when you must veer toward the shore to do so.  Our boat needs at least 6.5 feet of water under it to safely remain afloat.  Her full keel stretches the length of the boat and  is 5.5 feet below the water line, another aspect we must calculate for.

None of these issues put a negative slant on our desire to sail.  They are just part of the package; we are smitten by the experience of all of it.  It is invigorating, exhilarating and electrifying. The challenge and the sense of accomplishment never cease to be sensational.  Our priority has always been safety first before anything else so we time things as best we can; we wait for the proper weather, we try to keep the vessel in its best shape and we try to garner as much knowledge as possible. (We probably would think much more differently if we were 20 years old but those days are long gone.)

All things considered, we were ready for the passage through Cape Cod Canal.  Once achieved, we would enter Buzzards Bay, then sail down the Long Island Sound into Hell Gate, around Manhattan past the Statue of Liberty into the Hudson River and sail New York City.  Can you imagine it?  Can you imagine the rush? Can you imagine how overwhelming the emotion is? Can you imagine our faces as we look into each other’s eyes as we pass by Lady Liberty in our beloved Bridlewilde? Can you imagine? My excitement escalates at the very thought.  It will come. We must, however, get through the Cape Cod Canal first!

Sandwich is a small but busy town. It’s a touristy community with many museums and gardens, the elegant homes depict the true Cape Cod style architecture, there are biking trails and boardwalks along the beaches and restaurants galore serving fresh seafood fare. It’s real claim to fame began with Thornton Burgess who was born here and wrote many of his Peter Cottontail stories around the local meadows and forests he played in as a child, the famous glass company that began producing pressed glass here and the construction and opening of the canal in 1914.  We walked from the marina to a local chandlery and to the plaza to provision for the next few days at the grocery store. We spent the evening taking care of some housekeeping chores on the boat so we would be ready to depart the following day on the flood tide shortly after noon.

The chartplotter reading 10.2 knots

Banks of Cape Cod Canal

Departing Sandwich
Cape Cod Canal
Heading to bridge in Cape Cod Canal
 There are many rules to travelling this canal but those that most affected us were to stay to the right as though we were driving a car, do not exceed a speed of 10 knots, no sailing was allowed and one must get through the 10 mile span of the canal within 2 hours. Vessels travelling with the current, as we were, do have the right of way so we were not concerned about the time factor.  In fact, we were doing 10.2 knots at some points heading west which put us out into Buzzards Bay well within our allotted time. We motored out into the bay in the sunshine thoroughly enjoying the calm of the sheltered waterway.  By 3:15 that afternoon we had navigated into Pocassat Harbour, were again securely attached to a vacant mooring ball for the night,  in time for a sundowner in hand seated in the cockpit to watch the sun set over beautiful Buzzards Bay behind us.

Sunset from Pocasset Harbour













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Friday, March 10, 2017

…..Winthrop and what about the Winds of Change….

Winthrop is minutes away from Boston.  Actually, it is right on the flight path of Logan International Airport.  It is a small town of 20,000 people; has only two roads in, supports a fabulous small harbour and boasts that it is one of the safest places to live in America with almost no crime.  These and the 400 years of history that frame this community were all the reasons we chose to moor here as opposed to going into a big city Boston marina to tie up.  It was a difficult long day even though it was a short 21 nm run from Gloucester.  Although the sun shone warm and beautiful, for the entire sail the wind pushed against our bow as did the sea, allowing us a slow sail of 3.5 knots, until we entered into Presidents Roads in toward Boston.  Our navigational aid into this harbour was the sewage treatment plant that resembles a long row of giant eggs on Deer Island.  We were mindful and alert crossing the basin into Winthrop, we kept a very careful watch to remain in the channel.  This narrow channel is bordered by ledges and shallows, flats and rocks that we had no intention of coming into contact with.  We navigated between the shoals at Point Shirley and Snake Island and came to rest on a mooring ball in Winthrop Head, safely tucked in behind the marshes and grasslands around Logan Airport.
Winthrop
Winthrop from our mooring ball
Cruising in a sailboat is a lifestyle. People cruise for many reasons. It may be because one is hungry for the sense of adventure, it may be that the destination is the goal, it may be for the love of sailing a vessel, or for the love of being on the water, it may be the challenge or it may be a combination of many things.  But one thing all cruisers have in common is that they are doing it and inevitably, cruisers will catch up with each other, somewhere or other along their courses.   So it would be for us in Boston.

A month earlier in Liverpool, NS we met up with two other Canadian sailboats travelling south. Jimmy and Jacquie were headed somewhere warm and Joe and Rose, on their vessel, Winds of Change,  were travelling with them.  They were en route to Digby were Jimmy was going to visit with his mom for a couple of weeks and Joe and Rose were going to have some work done on their boat there.  Naturally, we were all like-minded and kept in touch with each other to pass on information, check on conditions, and touch base as to how each of us were progressing.  Jimmy and Jacquie had hustled on to New York where they were meeting up with Ellie and Allan; other cruising friends who had just arrived there from their trip south down the Hudson River.  Rose and Joe had taken on a crew member, Jeff, in Digby to help them sail their boat across the Bay of Fundy and southward toward their destination, the island of Antigua.  Winds of Change, including her three crew members, was berthed in the city marina in Boston, just a bus ride away.

The captain and I spent a day scouting out the community of Winthrop.  We saw the beautiful vintage Victorian homes in Cottage Park, we hung out at the town pier and we checked out the shops along the main street.  We watched the Canada Geese land and take refuge in the marsh grasses and we watched the bigger birds take off and land at Logan.   We went to the library, we had ice cream cones and we found a bus schedule and bus stops.  We made plans to visit Winds of Change the following day.
 
Big Birds arriving into Logan International Airport. Boston


The sky was overcast when we set out on the bus to Boston.  Nothing serious but by the time we made our bus connection to head to the harbour, a little rain had started to drizzle.  The bus trip there was to take about 40 minutes including the transfer we would need to make.  By the time we were winding down the busy streets of Boston toward the harbour, the rain intensified and we were glad we had asked the bus driver,  who agreed, to drop us as close to the city marina stop as possible.  We did have foul weather gear on but we knew we would have a bit of a walk before we reached the boat we were about to visit.   When the 40 minute ride stretched into 50 we finally asked the driver how much longer it would be before our stop.  Of course, we did not expect that he had forgotten about us. After he apologized, he let us out of the bus giving us directions how to get back to where we should have been let off.  Needless to say, by the time we arrived at Winds of Change, due to the extra-long walk we had undertaken, we were quite wet and the captain was less than pleased with this plan.  He had been doubtful that we would find our way through the metropolis of Boston in the first place, emphatically pointing out that we now navigate on the sea not on land, and this journey might just cause us some discontent.  But I was confident that we could soldier on and all would be fine. Even though the rain poured, our visit with Joe and Rose was enjoyable. We dried out, we met Jeff, and we laughed and drank and exchanged stories of each of our journeys thus far. 


Boston in background from Bridlewilde
All the while, however, the captain`s mind festered. He was agitated by the wind that was ramping up, the rain squalor that had not waned, the dropping temperature in mid-November Boston, the 10 foot tides of the Winthrop harbour, the overspent time visiting, the approaching darkness, the return bus trip and mainly that we must return to Bridlewilde on her mooring ball, in these horribly wet conditions in the dark in a dinghy that he was going to have to row.  The Kittery dinghy incident at night remained still very, very fresh in his mind!

We said our goodbyes, promising to keep in touch, and made our way through the downtown Boston streets to the bus stop, boarded and descended the bus in Winthrop, soaked again.  As the captain had predicted, the conditions for travel across the mooring field to our boat were not the best.  We were drenched, and cold, the tide was rising as was the wind, it was still pouring and it was dark.  We climbed over a fishing vessel, recovered the dinghy now quite wet with water, and climbed aboard.   Once the dinghy stabilized on the waves, the captain struggled against the tide to row us out toward our sailboat. I always carry a light in one of our packsacks. (For which I was thankful as well as having putting on our lifejackets)  We were within twenty feet of the ladder up to the deck of our sailboat when disaster struck us again, for the second time in less than a week.

I heard the crack.  The captain was back on to me as I was positioned in the nose of the dinghy. I head the desperation in his voice.  I heard him call over the wind that we were in trouble. I heard the water splash at us, I heard the wind howl and I heard the rain, sharp against the rubber of the dinghy`s inflated pontoons.  One of the dinghy oars had broken in half; the arm of it slipping out of the oarlock and had drifted overboard off into the waters.  Without the rowing pressure against both oars to keep us moving toward our sailboat, the tide was now pulling us and our dinghy out away from the boat.  By the time we were able to recover from the panic of this situation, we were about 500 feet beyond Bridlewilde.  The captain quickly sank off the dinghy seat onto its floor, where he could be steadied leaning against me. He grasped the remaining paddle piece of the broken oar in both hands leaving me to manage the remaining good oar.  Between the two of us, encouraging each other all the while that we were capable, able, and strong enough to maneuver ourselves back, we clawed and pulled against the surge, forcing  our way through the tide until we slammed hard against Bridlewilde`s bow in the dark. We both grabbed at her gunwale, held on with both hands as we inched the dinghy along her hull, around behind the Monitor at the stern of the boat until we could feel some relief from the tidal pressure and wind on our arms, sheltered somewhat on the lee side of the boat.  Then within seconds the captain had pulled the dinghy alongside the ladder into Bridlewilde.  He tied the lines of the dinghy tightly; it was secured to the sailboat; we were free to climb up the ladder and board her again.  Boarding is not an easy task at the best of times from a dinghy.  One must climb over the pontoon, from the level of the water, pull oneself onto the steps of the ladder, climb up it and step carefully onto a narrow deck.  Fortunately, Bridlewilde`s deck at the ladder is a width of 14 inches.  That was certainly helpful but with the wind and waves rocking the dinghy and the sailboat, when one is exhausted from rowing against a 10 foot tide, boarding can be a difficult feat.  But as you can imagine our bodies were overflowing with adrenaline.  Before we knew it we were both clambering into the cockpit, through the companionway, down into the cabin.  Drenched, exhausted, alive and safely home in our vessel again.

There was no charting this night, there was no discussion about the following day, there was no planning.  We stripped off our wet clothes for cuddly pajamas, the captain fired up our propane heaters and by the time we pulled back the covers to fall into bed, Bridlewilde was a toasty warm haven on a nasty rainy night.  Tomorrow would be left for another day!

....on the way to a waypoint.....Gloucester

Silently and thankfully we sailed toward Gloucester.  Our original expectation of events upon arrival in Gloucester, almost three weeks prior, was now a non-affair. David Evans was long gone back to Lunenburg; we were in recovery mode from the fiasco of the Kittery episode behind us; and we could almost visualize the ingress of the Cape Cod Canal.  We had dreampt of this for years.  Cape Cod Canal entry is a milestone, one waypoint on our chart, the first of a series of many for us and it was fast approaching.  It was not far off. Our excitement and anticipation grew with each wave that passed our vessel.

I wrote that we silently sailed to Gloucester.  There are often periods of silence between the captain and me as we glide over the waters.  It is at these times when I marvel at the beauty and majesty around me. We are often miles offshore surrounded only by the oncoming swell, the horizon, masses of atmospheric particles of some sort and usually, the star at the centre of our solar system around which we all orbit.  It can be overwhelming by times.  I have encountered this feeling before usually because of some un-describable natural manifestation. It is at these times when I find some semblance of an answer to some of the questions I have had for many years.  It is at these times when I find the water will speak to me. It is at these times, although we may encounter danger’s grasp at any moment, I have found myself most at peace.

The color of the water changes. It is alive. Each change brings about a different faction and a reaction. However, the response is always the same – it heaves, again, its tribute to me; almost stating, ‘Learn this-- I have shown you this before.’  The waves will ripple and reflect the light with hues that I eventually recognize I have seen.   They will dance and scurry sharply like butterflies, swells will reach out like long arms of carpet rolls, some oval, some stretched to the utmost so much so that they are almost flattened and as smooth as ribbon, they will build holes and tunnels in the sea resembling huge sand quarries,   some are topped with spires of froth that declare their strength, and some so monstrous, dark and cold and vicious demanding constant attention, each depicting some type of activity on the water.  I have quietly watched the sea for hours as we sail along.  I have heard its gurgles, its laughter as it tickles and splashes against our sailboat‘s hull, and I have heard her scream as she throws her power at us. Coupled with the wind and weather, the water asks nothing of me, it only gives. There is no harness for this beauty; there is no control of the sea, one who travels it can only respect its command, yield to its supremacy, and wisely come to know all that is possible to live and thrive within its sovereignty.  Left to the sea, it will attempt to teach one so.

I wrote that we sailed thankfully toward Gloucester.  We were thankful we came away from Kittery still able to continue our journey.  We were thankful for the quick and easy eventless run into and onto a free mooring ball in Gloucester. We were thankful for the excellent navigational aids we so appreciate seeing and reaching.  We have begun to relate to them similarly as one looks forward to the visit of a good friend. They are a lifeline, an accomplishment and a reference that we are successful, approaching our heading correctly.   There are countless tools we use as navigation tools.  Primarily of course, are our charts, both electronic and paper. Charts are very detailed. They enable us to map our route forward following a path we set out for ourselves.  We research, set our waypoints and then use the tools provided on the sea to assist us with every passage.  Waypoints are the points of reference we plot into our electronic system before we set out for any destination.  Our electronics have a built in GPS that picks up our location from satellites just as any new cell phone does.  In our case, the global positioning system (gps) inserts a tiny sailboat into our electronic charts that travels along with us as we sail forward. Our 12 inch monitor screen, mounted at our helm (or steering wheel) on our vessel, is our visual aid that is used to follow the course we set in advance for our sail. When we reach a waypoint on our chart likewise does the little sailboat on our electronics.  It is all very comforting to know when it is all functioning well but there is much to understand about the technology and the plotting of the route.  We have taken numerous courses designed to teach us how to do this but we are still very much amateurs. There is always something new to learn. There are international aids to navigation on the water that one must also learn to use for the identification for many circumstances one might encounter. Far too many to list here, however, those that we look to closely as friends are the buoys and markers identifying channels,  what hazards may be lurking, like shoals or rocks, lights that direct, even spires on churches can help one identify their location.  Generally, all the aids are listed on the charts and programmed into our electronic charts. If they are used as a waypoint and are met, it is as though we can check off another block on our “to do” list and head for the next one.  And we are thankful for these tools.
Chartplotter
Depth Sounder
Cruising Guides for research
One such aid is at Hatcher Rock, off Cape Ann.  It is a nasty rugged piece of land, a dangerous island surrounded by craggy shoreline, that seems to protrude forever, or so it seemed as we passed by it.  We certainly gave it its due, a wide berth.  However, in fairness, this island houses two twin lighthouses, one on either end.  Both were built in 1771 of granite and it was not until 1861 that they were illumined.  These huge structures remain standing and functional, almost 250 years later, proudly warning mariners of this danger zone.

Once past them we slipped by Brace Cove into Massachusetts Bay, continued south beyond Ten Pound Island (aptly named for the price originally paid to local Indians for its purchase) where we entered into Gloucester’s main harbour leading past Rocky Neck.  Near the harbour entrance on the western shore is Norman’s Woe Rock, a ghastly reef made famous in the captivating poem, ”Wreck of the Hesperus” by Henry W. Longfellow.  We dropped our sail there and motored up the channel into the Inner Harbour, catching a vacant mooring ball just before the sun dropped out of sight opposite Eastern Point Light.
Gloucester is renowned for its three centuries of fishing and boating activity. The town was also used as the backdrop for some passages in Rudyard Kipling’s book, “Captain Courageous” and the book turned movie, “The Perfect Storm” tells the ill-fated story of the loss of a local fishing vessel, the Andrea Gail,  and all of her crew.  This history attracted us to this harbour; we were compelled to sail in; and we hiked the downtown core the following day, immersed in its surrounding culture.  With our thirst of curiosity quenched, we returned to Bridlewilde, plotted our next course, and readied our boat for the next short sail to Winthrop, as the sun sank over the horizon again.






Saturday, February 25, 2017

…crazy, crazy, CRAZY….Kittery!

The captain and I were successfully making our way along the eastern seaboard heading south, nautical mile by nautical mile.  Each evening we discussed the weather options, the route for the following day, the status of the boat and options we might have should our course or plan need revision.  While we were in Portland we had been able to acquire our required cruising permit, check in to the country and update our phone plan for the United States.  Everything appeared to be moving relatively smooth and orderly.  We were progressing along confidently since the incident of my seasickness episode. The sun remained warm, the weather cooperative and the excitement unwavered.  We were soon to be in New Hampshire, to Gloucester, the port we had expected to see David following our departure from Yarmouth and prior to the seasickness affair.  One more run to the Isle of Shoals would set us up in line for a direct sail right into Gloucester.

We stretched away from the Kennebunk River toward the Isle of Shoals early in the day, hoping to make the mooring early so that we could be rested for the following long day.  The Isle of Shoals is located six miles off the coast; it is a rugged patch of rock consisting of nine islands where there are no permanent residents.  However, of interest to us, was the marine laboratory there that is a cooperative educational institution shared between Cornell and New Hampshire Universities, a retreat/conference centre and even more importantly, free mooring balls to tie to. The terrain sounded somewhat like that of Newfoundland and we were excited to arrive early to scout about.  After one more run to this mooring, in the Isle of Shoals, tucked in between Cedar and Smuttynose Island in Gosport Harbour, safely tied up in 26 feet of water, we could pride ourselves with one state down and accomplished.  The location was ideal to set us up for the following days direct sail right into Gloucester, New Hampshire. It all seemed perfect.

The day progressed well; we were making excellent time but the wind began to build giving us even a better boat speed.  With the wind however, the waves began to surge with intervals of five to six seconds. Our boat takes these conditions well. Because she is a steel vessel, she seems to jump toward each wave, throw her freeboard toward them where they break and  the remaining wave slides beneath her keel with ease. These conditions are of no consequence when we are sailing, but they are annoying when we are trying to sleep on a mooring.  When the captain consulted the weather resources we use, to determine how long this wind was to last, he announced that that wind would die in about another four hours.  We were able to continue to the Isle of Shoals safely in this time frame however, we have learned that even though the wind dies at sea, it takes the waves many hours afterward to flatten down. The wind will shift and scoot away elsewhere but can leave turmoil in its wake.  Those heavy powerful waves would not be smoothed down until half way through the night, especially six miles offshore on rocky islands with no treed protection.  The crashing against the shore would be very loud, the response of the wave against the rock would push the wave roughly back to sea in confusion and any chance of a smooth boat on a mooring ball in this would be non-existent.  We decided to alter our course to go into shore, to duck in behind New Castle and Gerrish Islands and make our way up the Piscataqua River to a more sheltered mooring ball for a more relaxed night in Pepperrel Cove.

It was still early in the mid-afternoon when we arrived in the mouth of the Piscataqua. I had not done much previous research on the area other than to do some quick determination of marina facilities and water depths.  We quickly plotted the new route into the chartplotter and lowered the sails to motor, cautious of our limited local knowledge.  As we expected, the river provided enough water underneath us to pass easily but the electronic charting info identified that it was laden with cable areas making it difficult for an anchorage just anywhere.  We proceeded very slowly toward Kittery Point looking for a suitable mooring ball.  Just as the tension was beginning to mount, a power boat pulled up beside us. The fellow aboard reported that he could clearly see, due to our reduced speed and our Canadian flag proudly billowing behind us, that we presented as though we may be undecided as to where we should go.  He asked some pertinent questions, gave us local knowledge and offered us a mooring ball at his marina past Kittery Point in the Back Channel.  We jumped at the offer, followed his lead right to the mooring ball and hooked on with no issue, safe again.   The evening was drawing by this time; we did not leave the boat, we would have supper and register at the marina the following morning.

We were aware of the tremendous current around us; we felt its tug earlier as we reduced our speed in the river.  The mooring was adequate; one of only a sparse few, directly across the river from the marina office and off the opposite shore of the river about 75 feet.  The remaining mooring balls, save one, were vacant, as were most mooring balls this late in the year. As noted before, by this time of year most sailing vessels of the North Atlantic Ocean  were pulled from the water, stored on the hard, save those few die hards.  After supper, I sat in the cockpit, admiring the pagoda in Jamaica Park, (so read the sign) on the shore just a few feet across from me on the southern shore. Children were playing ball and adults positioned off the shore point were fishing in the river. The view provided a sense of ease as I thought about what the following day was in memory of.  But the air cooled slightly as the evening began to close in and I returned to our cabin to devote some time to further investigate our immediate surroundings. 

The Piscataqua River is actually the dividing boundary separating the states of Maine and New Hampshire.  It also separates the city of Portsmouth, NH and the Back Channel, Pepperril Cove and the town of Kittery, ME where we were located. The marina across from us to our north was in Maine and the land mass just 75 feet away to our south was in New Hampshire. In actual fact, the land mass to our south was an island, called Seavey Island. It was not surprising to me when I  discovered that the current in this particular river sported a hefty 6 knot undertow.  I had felt it on the ride in and I could feel it under the boat’s hull as the river rush passed her, spitting colossal bubbles and frothing lathers from the depths, as it made its way to the sea.  The tidal range here is about 10 feet and it can create currents so strong that it has been known to drag navigational buoys under.  Oh my --- a little nerve wracking.

12000 years ago glaciers began to recede here causing the sea to rise and drown out most of the land. The actual straight coastline of the state is about 250 miles in length but if one was to take into consideration all the bays, inlets, deep rivers and island shores along it, caused by the same glaciers, the distance would be about 10 times that distance. Because so much of the land was drowned out, the shores were left mainly rocky, easily why the character of coastal Maine is now about 1/5 beach with the remaining 4/5 rock.  This could also be why the area is considered to be such a beautiful cruising ground for boaters. Like our  homeport area, the famed Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia, known also for its fabulous sailing grounds, the prevailing winds here are from the southwest in the summer time.  If one is cruising ‘up’ on a navigational chart, the sailing direction is actually downwind, eastward along the coast. This is how and why the term “Down East” originated.  It was understandable why this river we were moored in was deep, narrow, and fast.  It was also understandable why navigating it was   absolutely crucial on the correct tide.
Keith rose early in the morning. He manned the dinghy and rowed across the river to the marina on the incoming high tide with speed; the return was difficult, stretching at every pull of the oars, but manageable.   Upon his arrival back to Bridlewilde however, Keith  remarked that we really should have an outboard for our inflatable and he wondered if it was such a good decision to have left it behind in Nova Scotia.

It was a little windy but a beautifully sunny day, the 11th of November, Remembrance Day in Canada and Veterans Day in America.  We decided to take advantage of the nice weather to take a quick trip ashore to take care of a few housekeeping tasks, laundry, purchase a few groceries and propane, and pick up a few items at the hardware store before we departed for Gloucester by noon.

We packed up the laundry in our wheeled cart, put on our packsacks and lowered the cart into the dinghy.  The dinghy was tied to the side of the boat midship beside our embarking ladder.  The dinghy was heaving in the current but we managed to board it and positioned ourselves between the laundry and cart to travel across to the marina.  The captain pushed us away from the boat rowed the remaining length of our boat to its stern and turned the dinghy into the mainstream of the river toward the marina.  What occurred next was both shocking and totally unexpected.

Neither of us had calculated nor even considered the additional weight, myself, the laundry and the cart, on the dinghy or the effect it would have on the captain’s ability to row against that huge current, the wind and the incoming tide. He was able to manage in the vessel alone however, as he rowed our little eight foot inflatable dinghy, it was captured by the wind and the current so forcefully that it carried us completely in the opposite direction.  It happened so quickly and so powerfully that the captain, after many brutal attempts to summon enough personal strength to recover the loss, explained we would be left unable to recover the course across the river.  Immediately, we assessed the situation, we were both wearing life jackets; we saw a beach, although somewhat rocky, across from us on Seavey Island that may be a suitable landing site; we could attempt to head toward it; we had previously noticed a bridge further up on the Back Channel that connected the island and the mainland; we had enough line aboard the dinghy to tie it to the tree growth; and the wind and current was pushing the vessel toward the island whether we liked it or not. 

The captain quickly discussed a plan with me. We decided that we would try to guide the boat into the rocky beach, carry it up the beach over the rocks to the treeline, tie it safely there, make our way back through Jamaica Park to the bridge and continue on to take care of our housekeeping tasks on shore.  It would be a little inconvenient, as we would have a slightly longer walk into the centre of town but easily manageable and a great solution to our minor dilemma.  Keith struggled with the oars to guide us into the beach.  We landed rather roughly with water splashing about us making it necessary to act quickly. We had to depart the boat swiftly to secure our landing so as not to have the vessel dragged back into the river by the surf.  The tide had not completely risen thereby allowing the rocks on the beach to remain exposed, albeit they were still very slippery.  We stepped out of the boat carefully and reassessed our next move.  We would pull the boat completely from the water where I would wait with it, Keith would carry the laundry and cart to the trees, return to the boat so that we could both carry it over the rocks to where it would be tied until we returned. The plan carried off without a hitch and within 20 minutes we had the boat secure, we had scrambled up the rugged embankment and were heading toward the pagoda in Jamaica Park.  A little the worse for wear mind you, more so our dignity than our physical selves but we tugged our cart behind us along the sidewalk toward the bridge.

As we hiked closer to the bridge, we saw no one, but we did notice the railway tracks embedded into the pavement. I remarked to Keith that I thought that it was strange.  We continued on past the pagoda, planning to follow the street beyond the large storage buildings, hoping to find some residential streets that would lead us toward the bridge we would cross. We walked. We walked. We passed many narrow streets with huge terminal type buildings.  We passed more tracks in the pavement. We assumed we must be tramping through the local industrial area.  We walked.  The river was slightly visible behind the buildings so we knew we must be getting close to the bridge.  Cars were passing us by this time as we ambled along the sidewalk, comforted by the recognition that we must be heading toward more activity. When we rounded the next corner the bridge was in sight.   

I was horrified at first sight of the bridge.  My first impression was once of confusion.  The bridge was also vacant with large red pylons placed in front of its four lanes, indicating that it was closed.  I consoled myself by thinking there must be plans for a Veterans Day Parade and the bridge closure was in preparation for such a parade.  However, there was a far more ominous vista that sparked my initial horror.  I whispered to the captain that I was almost sure we must be in an area where we may not be welcome.  The bridge was flanked on either side by twelve foot steel spars, painted black, spaced about 4 inches apart sporting nasty sharp spikes at the top of the spar.

Keith dispelled my fears by pointing to the sidewalk along the bridge while we resumed our trek toward the other side of the structure. Once there, we noticed that the bridge was gated, locked and unmanned. However, after our investigation along its perimeter, located past the far side of one of the gatehouses on either side of the bridge, was a large steel turnstile we could exit.  Relieved, we hauled our laundry buggy through the bars and walked over the grass to the sidewalk leading in to town. Twenty steps out it hit me. I turned, returned to the turnstile, attempted to pass through, fully expecting the slam of the bar against my hand.  I could not enter.

There was no need to panic, certainly not yet.  We continued up the long sloping grade into town to take care of our business.  At the hardware store we purchased one pound bottles of propane for our heater and were given directions to the laundry mat there. We stopped on the way to enjoy an ice cream, a delicacy we seldom keep aboard.   We meandered our way along to the laundry mat and finished our chores there.  En route to the laundry mat I pointed out to the captain, the wide busy driveway entrance that lead to another bridge and suggested to him that it probably lead to Seavey Island also.  We would investigate on our way back from our laundry task.  We did not notice the huge blue and black water tower hidden in the background behind the bridge.

I live on a boat.  I try to minimize everything we carry on shore to the lowest common denominator.  I keep bulk products aboard and place reduced volumes that I must carry to shore, like bleach and laundry detergent, in smaller containers.  On this occasion the bleach was stored in a small clear plastic coke bottle and the laundry detergent similarly in another clear plastic bottle.  On this trip ashore, we were only doing laundry, Keith was with me, I had no need to carry a purse.  We had packed up the laundry in our buggy, housed the propane and the laundry liquids in a bag together, protected,  in case of a spill back across the water.  We headed back to collect our dinghy, cross back to Bridlewilde and make our Kittery departure time of noon.

We turned into the wide curved driveway of the bridge we had seen on the way to the laundry mat.  As we descended down the mild grade that circled slightly to the right toward the bridge we saw the lineup of vehicles.  We saw the bridge gatehouses, we saw the uniformed men manning the gate, we saw the men stopping vehicles in the lineup, we saw these men asking drivers to produce paperwork, we saw the AK47 machine guns strapped to their chests, and we finally saw the enormous blue water tower, hidden behind the bridge that read ``US Navy Base`` in large black letters.  OMG I thought to myself as I flashed an alarmed glance toward Keith.  He saw my face as he proceeded to walk toward an officious looking armed guard at the gate.

Immediately, as we approached two armed men came forward, confronted us with their weapons drawn, told us to move no further and inquired as to what we were doing.  The captain explained that we just needed to walk through the base to recover our dinghy that had blown ashore further down the river by Jamaica Park and we would be on our way.  It was at that admission that we were told to drop our laundry cart, immediately move our bodies to a particular location against a wall of one of the gatehouses in front of the bridge leading on to the navy base.  Apparently, in our decent toward the gate we had stepped over an imaginary line and were now on private US federal property.  Not just any private federal property – our dinghy was tied to a tree on a highly secure nuclear submarine naval base where only specific personnel were allowed and we were at its gate.  The whole island is the base, 5000 naval personnel work building and repairing nuclear subs, 900 of whom live on site and no civilians are admitted. Jamaica Park is not a public park; it is the park designated for those residing on the base to enjoy. More importantly, our dinghy beached on their land and our unquestioned travel through the base was of huge interest…. we had breached their secure operation.

The young naval officers who had us detained did not know what to do with us.  Their superiors were called and until a decision was made we were to remain on the wall.  Two armed officers were assigned to ``keep an eye`` on us. Two hours later a group of naval police officers arrived.  Our packsacks were emptied and each item searched.  The laundry cart was emptied and searched.  The items of bleach and laundry soap, both in unmarked containers and the bottles of propane became of high interest. New superiors were consulted.  After another hour and half more naval investigators arrived.  Now both Keith and I were asked to strip off our outer clothing (we were both wearing winter attire) so that we could be searched and patted down.  All of the pockets of our jackets were searched.  We were asked to pull each of the pockets of our jeans out.  Naturally I had no items in my pockets but the captain had his large folding sailing knife with a 6 inch blade in his pocket.  It was confiscated immediately by one of the investigators.  After our clothes were searched we were now to be patted down. Eight officers surrounded each of us in a circle while this operation took place.  We were placed back against the wall of the building again until further discussion internally took place.  We were not sure who was called following the patting down but within an hour another group of investigators came to review our identification.  Keith did have his wallet but I had no documentation with me at all.  This created further difficulty but I was able to assure the investigators that I knew my Canadian Social Insurance number and provided it as the only piece of information other than I could verbally provide my birthdate, birthplace and to whom.  It was then that we were told that we would remain being held there until our information was run through Interpol records for confirmation, a process that would again take more time.

We had been cooperative, we had been standing at the wall for over four and a half hours and it was getting later in the day.  The captain related to our guards that we would be hard pressed to return to our vessel if we did not get there soon; the tide would change.  Caught in a tidal change we would be in an even graver situation in the dark. We could be blown out the channel toward the sea in the dinghy.  His concerns were unheard and we remained at the wall.  The warmth of the mid November day had dispersed. The cool of the evening brought about shivers to both of us.  Our discomfort must have been evident to our captors.  Another group of navy individuals arrived shortly with two huge barrel propane fan heaters on trailers. The heaters were ignited and placed near us.  The hot air blew toward us as we stood.  Another hour passed before two police vehicles with four officers in each arrived.  We watched as the men stepped out of the vehicles.  I saw one officer load our laundry and cart into one of the police vans.  It did not look good.  Two men we had not seen before approached us.  Each of the men identified themselves as senior investigators assigned to our “case.”  We had become a case; we thought we wanted only to recover our dinghy and move along.  However, obviously, this was not to be. We were informed that the police vehicles were there to transport us to the naval police station where we would be escorted to a cell inside.  We were told we would be held there until we were transported to an interrogation room. In the interrogation room we would each be asked to relate to the chief investigator the exact series of events that took place from the time we arrived on the mooring ball until we arrived at the gate of the base and answer a series of questions.  This process took about an hour and once completed we were each asked to put a statement to writing. Once the written statement was completed there was a series of paperwork that we were to sign identifying our understanding of a number of conditions that had been verbally related to us.  While this took place another individual appeared that we had not seen.  He was in civilian clothes looking somewhat dishevelled for a navy official.  He introduced himself to us.  He was the naval commander of the base, roused from bed to come deal with this “situation” that had occurred on his watch. He talked to us, spent about half an hour chatting, was extremely kind, discussed sailing techniques with Keith but never let his guard down at any moment.  He explained that the next thing that would happen would be that a naval photographer would arrive and photographs, mugshots, of both of us would be taken.  We would be placed against a height ladder and the pictures would be taken with that as a backdrop.  In actual fact numerous photos were taken—ones with our glasses on , ones with our glasses off, ones of our face on only, ones with side view, full body pics, face on and sideways.  After this procedure we were left in the interrogation room together for about half an hour.  Neither of us spoke a word; we had no idea what was to come and did not know if whatever conversation we had would be recorded.

The chief investigator returned to tell us that we were about to be charged with a criminal offence.  Keith protested explaining our position.  We had no idea the area was a secure naval sub base; we certainly were not terrorists nor were we ever considering to be a threat to the US of A; and our dinghy met with weather conditions we could not control.  This naval base certainly did not appear highly secure to us, for goodness sake, we saw no signs posted; we saw no private property notices; no fences, no security offices or officers, no explanation from the marina,  no indication at all that we were invading.  The investigator was a kind man; he walked to the door of the room and closed it; he returned to take a seat in front of us, a middle aged senior couple attempting the cruising voyage of their lives and said, “Listen to me sir.  You and your wife have been extremely patient and forthcoming with all of us. It is commendable. You are preaching to the choir when you speak of location notice. We have been trying to rectify this issue for years. However, I am told that I must present you with a charge and that is what I must do.  I report to a superior officer as does he. The chain of command must be followed.  The best I can do for you will be to charge you with the lightest possible offence that we would have. You are charged with Trespassing on Highly Secure Federal Grounds of the United States of America.”

He presented us with our offence.  We looked at each other in disbelief.  We had been honest about this circumstance; we were not at fault and we had intentionally done nothing to harm the US of A. But as the paperwork was pushed forward toward us we picked it up, certainly not our choice, but it was ours. We owned it.  The captain asked the investigator how this was going to affect the duration of our trip south.  We were told to continue along as though this had never occurred and there would be no problem. It would be some time before court document paperwork would arrive at our home address in Nova Scotia.  The man explained the next series of events that would happen.

Two naval police officers would escort us out the back of the police station where we would pick up our laundry cart.  We would enter a police van with the two officers who would deliver us to Jamaica Park where we would be allowed to recover our dinghy and return to Bridlewilde.  The police officers in the van would be asking additional questions. The US naval vessel that was currently on watch of our boat would tow us to Bridlewilde.  (Time had passed. It was 11:30 pm.  The tide had changed; we would have difficulty navigating the dinghy. The captain had informed the investigators of the scenario we would be faced with in the dark against the tide, wind and current.)  Four of the six officers aboard the naval vessel would board Bridlewilde to investigate our vessel, with us aboard. One was assigned to review all of our documentation and one was assigned to photograph each piece.  The other two armed officers would remain on deck while this took place to protect those aboard. We would also be required to upload our chart plotter to display the record of our course to the mooring. This was to verify that we had not planned a direct course to the Naval Base. Photographs would be taken of the charted course.  Upon the departure of all officers from our vessel and the termination of their procedures for the night the captain’s sailing knife would be returned to him.  The plan was set.

We departed the police station in the van. We were asked additional questions; all related to the statements we had given. We responded and soon arrived at Jamaica Park.  We could see floodlights focused on our boat and on the dinghy.  The US Naval boat was stationed where it was expected to be.  The two officers followed us through the treed undergrowth directly to the spot where the dinghy was tied.  I lagged a bit because I did not want to trip on the uneven ground in the dark.  I am sure I heard one of the two officers mutter his discontent about leaving the warmth of the van to be traipsing through the rugged brush following us.  We crawled back down the bank, loaded our laundry into the dinghy and carried it back to the water’s edge.  One would think that the naval personnel would have an understanding of the water conditions around their very secure island but this was not the case.  The vessel that had been deployed to watch our sailboat and subsequently tow our dinghy and us back to it was unable to navigate the shallow depths closer to shore. It was impossible for their boat to assist us.  Again we were at the mercy of the conditions.  It was dark; the wind was nasty, as was the current.  What happened next was exactly as the captain had predicted!

We started out in the dinghy with the captain rowing. Initially we were expecting the navy vessel to reach us to help. However, when the captain of that vessel realized he could not navigate the depths,  he repositioned his vessel. The naval boat made its way and rafted up to Bridlewilde, leaving to navigate the waters in the dark. (of course we had donned our life jackets – our standard practice) The waves were too strong for a dinghy with no motor to be in this water but here we were.  We had no options; we were drifting away from shore, away from Bridlewilde and out of the harbour in the middle of the night.  Our dinghy had almost a foot of water in it. The waves continued to splash against it throwing more and more water into it, making it even that much heavier to navigate. Both of us were soaked by this time, as was our precious “laundry.” 

I believe I mentioned prior that most of the mooring balls at this time of year were empty and to our good fortune, I might add.  The large spotlights were no longer focussed on us as the naval vessel had lost sight of us.  We could still see the two police vehicles on shore that had been monitoring Bridlewilde.  Each vehicle had its headlights on, providing us with a minimal amount of light.  The captain had his back to me in the dinghy desperately rowing the heavy boat trying to ensure we did not capsize. I could see the white outline of a mooring ball beyond us as the water pushed us forward.  I yelled to Keith (you can imagine that the situation was somewhat tense) to try to aim for it and I would attempt to lean out to catch its lines so that we could possibly secure to it.  As luck would have it, that is just what took place.  I say luck but if not for my captain’s navigation skill, fortitude, determination, love, and strength who knows the outcome.   Keith managed to hold the dinghy close and I managed to grab on to the mooring lines.  We had done it.  Within seconds we both clung to the lines. The pressure of the chop pushed water up to our shoulders but we held on.  We were temporarily ok.

I suspect, the captain of the naval vessel, dumbfounded, wondered what had become of us when we did not arrive at Bridlewilde.  We could hear muffled VHF radio transmission taking place.  I believe the police vessels on shore saw what had happened to us and radioed the naval vessel ordering them to try to rescue us. (Perhaps they may have considered that we were making an attempt to escape.)  Whatever, attached to the mooring ball we would be in deep enough water for that vessel to meet ours.   The naval vessel screamed up in haste beside us coming to an abrupt stop at the ball.  Here again, I wonder about the abilities of this particular naval captain.  His vessel had two 300 horsepower Honda outboard motors propelling it.  These motors create a huge wake. This wake effect crashing into a heavy dinghy sporting two adults and a precious “laundry cart” holding a foot of water is massive at the best of times, let alone in the middle of the night in difficult weather conditions.  These heavy wake waves quickly rolled over the pontoons and into our little vessel. Fortunately, the weight and speed of the swell forced it over the wooden stern of the dinghy and did not take us with it but it left the boat half full.  We were beaten by the wave, shattered and wet, exhausted, unable to remain in the boat. Both of us clambered up over the side of the naval vessel with the assistance of two of the fellows aboard it.  They dragged the cart aboard and attached the dinghy to tow it.

Let me set up this picture for those of you who have told me that you do not visualize without explanation. The rest of you bear with me.

This day.  It’s the middle of the night. We are completely soaking wet. It is mid-November on the Maine/New Hampshire border. We are stuck in a vicious river. We are tired. We have had “mug” shots taken.  We are middle-aged seniors. We have been charged with a federal offense. We are about to disembark a naval vessel. We have been rescued from a harrowing experience attached to a mooring ball. It is cold. We are cold. Our feet and legs are sore.  We were standing at attention on a wall outside at a naval base for well over eight hours.  We have been interrogated. We have been frisked and searched. We have been cold and warmed numerous times over the course of the day.  We have escaped death twice.  We have had AK47 machine guns pointed at us. We have had the chill wind howling at us. We have been held in jail. We have not been aboard our boat all day; it is cold and damp.   We are innocent. We are about to have people board our home with guns, search our property, and record all of our personal information.  And......we were beginning to become a little taxed!

We finally arrive to our boat.  The naval boat rafted again for the second time this evening to  Bridlewilde.  Our vessel is our home and we try to protect it as anyone would care for their home.  Our pleas and request to allow us to attach fenders to  Bridlewilde (our effort to ward off damage that would occur with the large naval vessel crashing against her in these rough waters) were not considered.  We were left to crawl aboard her from the naval vessel and carry our sopping laundry cart with us. Two of the naval officials with weapons had already jumped aboard our vessel. Each was stationed on either side of the bow.  I noticed their stance as I came onto our boat and wondered if they felt safe there rocking in the current and wind. Two other officials followed us aboard as expected and the four of us descended into the cabin. As we expected it was chilled and damp.  We were asked to provide the paperwork that the naval police were looking for.  We keep all of our and the boat’s documentation together so it was easy to provide.  The naval photographer took all the photos of each individual piece while the other officer searched the boat.   Water was still dripping from our clothes when we were next told to turn on our electronic equipment, load our navigational charts and produce the route we had taken to get to this mooring ball.  After those pictures were taken, the four officers left our boat.  As the last officer stepped through the gate of our boat to step onto his vessel, he reached across between our lifelines to hand the captain his sailing knife.  Suddenly, their vessel sped away noisily in the dark; we fell into our cabin thankful this horrendous ordeal was over.

But it wasn’t over!

We had our course charted south and were prepared to get out of Kittery as fast as possible the following day.  After the naval vessel left us, we noticed that two naval police cruisers remained stationed for the remainder of the night on shore in Jamaica Park, perhaps to watch our movements.  In the morning Keith took the dinghy across to the marina to pay for our stay before we left.  While he was gone the same naval vessel that had come to our boat the night before, showed up immediately and circled our boat.  The naval vessel then moved away, re-positioned itself about 2000 feet from us, and remained there until we departed the river for the Atlantic.  Shortly after Keith returned we slipped away from the mooring ball and motored away from this river.  We were shocked to find that we had aircraft coverage above us until we were two miles offshore into the north Atlantic.  When we saw the plane dip and curve sharply back toward the naval base we breathed a huge sigh of relief.   

I remember one of us, I do not know who, saying to the other, “Is this over? Let’s get out of here.”  And no sooner than the words were out of the mouth we heard sirens blaring and a reflection of blue and red flashing in our big chrome winches.  Seconds later we could hear someone yelling over a bullhorn telling us a boat was approaching our starboard.  We both looked back in astonishment.   A huge US Coast Guard Inspection Vessel was pulling up beside us and from forty feet away, a man clad in a bright blue and white suit sporting a megaphone was directing us to slow our vessel and come about. We were told that the US Coast Guard personnel would be boarding to do an inspection of our vessel.  We could not believe it.  We were two miles into New Hampshire and stopped again.  We could not help but wonder if the navy had contacted the Coast Guard to check us out. 

Two coast guard representatives boarded Bridlewilde while three remained on their boat.  One armed guard remained on our bow keeping watch while the other dealt with the formalities.  Apparently, we were told, a Canadian flag is a “red” flag for the Coast Guard.  We complied to the requests, the first being to empty our bilge for confirmation that it was functioning properly.  We were told that the officials were concerned for their safety.  The bilge in proper pumping order would be primary to ensure that any water coming into our vessel could be expelled.  We were asked to present all the boat’s documentation again, as well as all of ours.  Again, our information was recorded. The inspection took 45 minutes.   As quickly as they boarded, the coast guard fellows untied their boat from ours and pulled away.  We were pleased to see their vessel turn, crank hard to port and blast back toward the Piscataqua River. We turned our stern to them.  For the second time this day the captain raised Bridlewilde’s sails. Within seconds, she pinched, grasped the wind briskly and cruised headlong as though she had never been offended.  We on the other hand, felt invaded, disheartened, although elated, to have left behind this crazy Kittery conundrum we had just endured. We were bound for Gloucester.